The Zambian government is busy in the process of decentralisation since President Sata’s rise to power in October 2011. The main aim is to empower districts councils so to reduce reliance on the provincial offices. As many districts cover large areas it is now seen as practical to start creating new districts to help share the administrative burden. In North Western Province, an area of Mwinilunga district was sectioned off and designated a new district. This district was named Ikelenge.
The establishment of Ikelenge was of consequence to our office (Department of Physical Planning and Housing) as we were tasked with creating a planning boundary for the township area (township in Zambia means the urban developed area – outside of township areas land is owned by the chiefdoms). We also were required to create a masterplan for an area of land that will be the district’s main urban area. At present, there is only a high street type settlement that serves as the district’s business centre.
Onwards, to Ikelenge...
The trip to Ikelenge was my first trip into the field for what is known as ‘field work’. The department has two vehicles for such trips. Unfortunately we had to make do with the forlorn Nissan Hardbody (silver) over the Toyota Hilux. Mulenga (Field Survey Officer) picked me up at 4.30am to load up our food, water and petrol (there are no pumps in Ikelenge, just black market fuel) from the office.
The road from Solwezi to Mwinilunga is adequate, without too many potholes. However, it is still not a pleasant drive, especially when the tyres and suspension on the Nissan were not in the best shape. It takes roughly 3-4 hours to reach Mwinilunga, and from there it takes another 1-2 hours to reach Ikelenge. The road to Ikelenge is sporadically developed. When you travel north from Mwinilunga the tarmac stops and gravel/dust/mud takes over. Momentary respite from the bumps came when we travelled on patches of tarred road which were apparently done for the election campaign in 2011.
The journey was very picturesque, driving through open plains and passing numerous villages, under canopies of trees and fading leaves that reminded me of autumn on that sceptred isle. The road was busy with people traffic as standard in Zambia. In particular there were a lot of bicycles where men would be carrying obscene amounts of cargo (chairs, tin roofs, animals, wooden beams). We passed one village where a man was holding a replica copy of the African Cup (Zambia were champions earlier this year). Through my sleepy haze I initially thought I was seeing the real thing, but clearly a man sensed an opportunity to sell something when he heard a car coming.
There’s a section of road on the way to Ikelenge that skirts the border of the DR Congo. You certainly wouldn’t want to stray off track here as there are meant to be landmines in the dense bush. You also pass the turnoff for the source of the Zambezi River. A tiny drop through some rocks sets it off. From here it travels north and loops through Angola and back in Zambia, down through Western Province and follows the southern border until a 100m drop famously known as Victoria Falls. Approximately 550 million litres drops over the edge each year. Then the river moves through Mozambique and finally it meets the Indian Ocean, 2,700 km from where it began.
Town (or village...)
In Ikelenge, the main hub of life is focussed around a small strip of shops and a market. The market is a reasonable structure by Zambian rural standards and even has a roof. Nevertheless, the entrepreneurial spirit in Zambian people takes precedence, and because of the lack of regulations and enforcement, the traders sell their goods by the side of the road. This has advantages and disadvantages.
The advantage is that as you pass you can easily pick up goods and be on your way without having to divert and stop your car to pass through the market. It also adds to the vibrancy of Zambian streets/roads and gives a real distinctive African feel. The disadvantage is that these people are not paying rates trade and therefore money is not collected for the authorities to pay for better infrastructure and services. In addition, the space they take up can cause hazards and create a hectic feel especially when you are trying to walk by when cars are passing. These traders are very close to car traffic.
The reason the roadside economy continues to flourish is because Sata, in his ascension to power, promised these people that they could remain trading on the streets and would not be removed if he got to power. So far, there has been no broken promise, but for the public on the street going about their daily business the traders can be a real problem, causing congestion, noise and disorder. Sata also promised that he would rule Zambia in line with the Ten Commandments.
The establishment of Ikelenge was of consequence to our office (Department of Physical Planning and Housing) as we were tasked with creating a planning boundary for the township area (township in Zambia means the urban developed area – outside of township areas land is owned by the chiefdoms). We also were required to create a masterplan for an area of land that will be the district’s main urban area. At present, there is only a high street type settlement that serves as the district’s business centre.
Onwards, to Ikelenge...
The trip to Ikelenge was my first trip into the field for what is known as ‘field work’. The department has two vehicles for such trips. Unfortunately we had to make do with the forlorn Nissan Hardbody (silver) over the Toyota Hilux. Mulenga (Field Survey Officer) picked me up at 4.30am to load up our food, water and petrol (there are no pumps in Ikelenge, just black market fuel) from the office.
The road from Solwezi to Mwinilunga is adequate, without too many potholes. However, it is still not a pleasant drive, especially when the tyres and suspension on the Nissan were not in the best shape. It takes roughly 3-4 hours to reach Mwinilunga, and from there it takes another 1-2 hours to reach Ikelenge. The road to Ikelenge is sporadically developed. When you travel north from Mwinilunga the tarmac stops and gravel/dust/mud takes over. Momentary respite from the bumps came when we travelled on patches of tarred road which were apparently done for the election campaign in 2011.
The journey was very picturesque, driving through open plains and passing numerous villages, under canopies of trees and fading leaves that reminded me of autumn on that sceptred isle. The road was busy with people traffic as standard in Zambia. In particular there were a lot of bicycles where men would be carrying obscene amounts of cargo (chairs, tin roofs, animals, wooden beams). We passed one village where a man was holding a replica copy of the African Cup (Zambia were champions earlier this year). Through my sleepy haze I initially thought I was seeing the real thing, but clearly a man sensed an opportunity to sell something when he heard a car coming.
There’s a section of road on the way to Ikelenge that skirts the border of the DR Congo. You certainly wouldn’t want to stray off track here as there are meant to be landmines in the dense bush. You also pass the turnoff for the source of the Zambezi River. A tiny drop through some rocks sets it off. From here it travels north and loops through Angola and back in Zambia, down through Western Province and follows the southern border until a 100m drop famously known as Victoria Falls. Approximately 550 million litres drops over the edge each year. Then the river moves through Mozambique and finally it meets the Indian Ocean, 2,700 km from where it began.
Town (or village...)
In Ikelenge, the main hub of life is focussed around a small strip of shops and a market. The market is a reasonable structure by Zambian rural standards and even has a roof. Nevertheless, the entrepreneurial spirit in Zambian people takes precedence, and because of the lack of regulations and enforcement, the traders sell their goods by the side of the road. This has advantages and disadvantages.
The advantage is that as you pass you can easily pick up goods and be on your way without having to divert and stop your car to pass through the market. It also adds to the vibrancy of Zambian streets/roads and gives a real distinctive African feel. The disadvantage is that these people are not paying rates trade and therefore money is not collected for the authorities to pay for better infrastructure and services. In addition, the space they take up can cause hazards and create a hectic feel especially when you are trying to walk by when cars are passing. These traders are very close to car traffic.
The reason the roadside economy continues to flourish is because Sata, in his ascension to power, promised these people that they could remain trading on the streets and would not be removed if he got to power. So far, there has been no broken promise, but for the public on the street going about their daily business the traders can be a real problem, causing congestion, noise and disorder. Sata also promised that he would rule Zambia in line with the Ten Commandments.
The roadside sellers are predominantly women. Many working beside their children, with babies strapped to their backs. They come from the villages, probably having walked miles just to get to town to make some money. Many women mix Western and African clothing, blending an array of colours and styles. On the bottom half, the chitenge to ensure that the knees are covered – a shibboleth that will remain for some time yet; and the upper half, tops sent over from charity shops – you can even recognise some from the time they were in fashion in the UK. I do find it strange when they are walking around in the Manchester United 2006/07 replica kit, with ‘Rooney’ emblazoned on the back. They probably have no idea who he is or what he gets up to in his spare time.
Aside from the groups of women selling goods, you also notice a lot of kids playing around. It is clear that there is little to do for the youth of Ikelenge. Entertainment in the village centre revolves around the pool table. It’s crowded with boys every day until the sun goes down at 7pm (there is a bulb allowing for post-darkness play but, apparently, the owner of the shop near to the table has not been around to turn it on). The boys still play in the semi-darkness – what else is there to do?
Villages
Out of the ‘town’ and into the rural villages. The poverty is clear to see. These people have nothing but the clothes on their back and whatever excess food they have grown that can be sold in order to buy stuff. The economy is based primarily on selling pineapples, or makondi in Lunda. There are fields everywhere. The patriarch will set up his home near his field and toil in the day to make sure the pineapples are tended to. Constant care is required as it takes roughly two to three years from planting to ripe fruit. So, whilst the men work in the fields, the women fetch the water, clean and prepare food.
If men are not working then they are being idle. It makes you realise how much unemployment there is in Zambia. In these chiefdoms, the men don’t have the role that they had many years ago when they were responsible for hunting for food. If they don’t have a trade then they will be doing some small-scale subsistence work like crafting chairs, selling bricks, or selling a chicken to a neighbour. It is evident that it will come to a point where the money they make from selling pineapples (or other items) won’t be enough for them to feed their families. And so to the towns and cities they will go. This is a classic example of why there is so much urbanisation occurring in Africa, and will keep continuing for the next few decades.
Pineapple hunt
One of the highlights of being in Ikelenge is the availability of pineapples. They are everywhere. To shop for pineapples the process begins by a simple beep of the horn. It is all that is needed to get the attention of the villagers. They know that business has arrived. Kids come first, running because of the excitement, followed by the elders...
Mulenga does the talking. His scratchy Lunda is just enough to communicate. I have no idea what is being said so I just watch the body language and use my instinct. Before I know it we are out of the vehicle and into the fields. Boys follow me, staring at me in their rags. Just a wave to them and eyes beam brightly – smiles are wide. I like to think I make their day.
Mulenga is a pro at this game. Before I know it he’s down the bottom of the field, picking out the best pineapples. The women are in tow to collect the ones he points at. After the collection a man comes over with his knife. He expertly shaves the pineapple and cuts it into segments ready for consumption.
So there we were, surrounded by undulating pineapple fields somewhere near the 11th parallel. No roads, no pedestrian crossings, no places of worship, no Smirnoff Ice, no iPhones, no health clubs, no broken glass, no cigarette butts. Just men standing on the scorched-dry dust-ridden earth sucking on pineapples so sweet. Taking in a life-enhancing fruit; feeling one of those rewarding moments; being a sentient being; tasting the life flow. My bad childhood memories of Asda frozen ham and pineapple pizzas firmly banished.
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